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Cold weather, holiday food, toxins and injuries can cause our pets serious problems this time of year. Thankfully, animal emergency rooms are now common. Staffed by highly trained team members and loaded with high-tech equipment, it might be difficult to distinguish the animal ER from your local human hospital. Watch this video to learn more.

You can't live properly with a dog unless it's trained. It's that simple, and it really doesn't matter whether your canine is a four-pound Toy or a 104-pound Working breed. An untrained dog is an invitation to disaster. A dog that won't come when you call is always in danger.

A Well Behaved Dog Requires Obedience Training

You can't blame the dog either. If you don't train your dog, you are at fault. No one else. In fact, if you're not prepared to properly train your dog, you probably shouldn't get one in the first place.

Now for the good news: dogs are easily trained. That's probably the reason why dogs have long been America's favorite pet. Despite the fact that they train relatively easily, however, you still have to do the job. One way to make training simple is to get a breed that readily adapts to your life-style and that corresponds to what you want in a canine companion. Serious breeders can help you with this. They should tell you about their breed's inherent trainability—advice you should heed before making your final decision.

Rest assured that training does not strip a dog of natural instincts or "joie de vivre." After all, these are the things that attract people to dogs in the first place. We want you to celebrate the canine spirit, not abuse it.

What training does, however, is structure the dog's responses, giving you a good companion. Training gives you an animal you can trust, rely on, even flaunt. In fact, it establishes a channel of communication between you and your dog that significantly enhances your mutual respect and friendship.

Training A Dog Enhances Your Relationship

Every civilized dog should know at least five basic commands: heel, sit, down, stay and come. These commands form the core of the exercises required for a Companion Dog degree in an American Kennel Club Novice Obedience competition. Even if you don't take your dog beyond these beginning lessons, they are absolutely essential in making every dog a true companion.

Incidentally, you train your dog to understand its name in much the same way you train it to do anything—by simple, repetitive action. As far as the name goes, make sure everyone in the household is using the same name. And, you can teach an older dog a new name, if you must.

Rabies is known to affect virtually all mammals, but the disease is rare in small rodents. Since 1995 in the United States, more than 7,000 animals per year--most of them wild--have been diagnosed with rabies. The disease is found in 49 U.S. states (all but Hawaii), as well as in Canada, Mexico and most other countries of the world. Among domestic animals, 59% of the reported cases in 2009 were cats.

In wild animals, rabies is more common in bats, skunks, raccoons and foxes, but the disease also has been found in deer, coyotes and in large rodents such as woodchucks. Cats, dogs and livestock can get rabies too, if they are not vaccinated and are bitten by a rabid animal. Some animals, including chipmunks, gerbils, guinea pigs, hamsters, mice, rabbits, rats and squirrels, get rabies but cases are less frequent. From 1985 through 1994, woodchucks accounted for 86% of the 368 cases of rabies among rodents reported to the US Center for Disease Control. Since rabies is a disease of warm-blooded animals only, birds, fish, insects, lizards, snakes and turtles do not get rabies.

Many cases of rabies have been traced to rabid bats. So, if your indoor cat encounters a bat, transmission is very possible. It is unlikely that your cat will get rabies from field mice that enter the house, or from house mice that set up nests. Other unwanted house guests that enter accidently, such as chipmunks and squirrels, can transmit rabies to your cat; however, reported cases are infrequent.

That said, as a precautionary measure, it is necessary to have your indoor pets vaccinated for rabies and other diseases. Since bats get in and cats get out, it is always better to be safe than sorry. For more information about vaccinating your indoor pets against rabies and other contagious diseases, call your local veterinary hospital today. Your veterinarian is always the best source for information about protecting your pets.

More often than not, dogs are exposed to toxic household products accidentally, though from time to time, well-intentioned owners may unknowingly give their dogs harmful products or medications in an attempt to help them.

VPI reports its policyholders spent more than $6.6 million between 2005 and 2009 treating their pets for poisoning.

Veterinary Pet Insurance (VPI) reported that accidental ingestion of pet or human medications was the most common source of pet poisoning claims between 2005 and 2009. This accounted for nearly 25 percent of their total poisoning claims.

Below is a list compiled by VPI for toxin claims from 2005 to 2009.

• (Poison -- Number of claims)
• Drug reactions/accidental ingestion of drugs -- 5,131
• Rodenticide -- 4,028
• Methylxanthine -- 3,661
• Plant poisoning -- 2,808
• Household chemicals -- 1,669
• Metaldehyde -- 396
• Insecticide/organophosphate -- 323
• Heavy metal toxicity -- 288
• Toad poisoning -- 270
• Antifreeze -- 213
• Walnuts -- 100
• Alcohol -- 75
• Strychnine -- 28

Ibuprofen

Ibuprofen, also known by the name brands Advil or Motrin, is a non-steroidal, anti-inflammatory drug commonly used as a pain reliever or fever reducer. The most common over-the-counter strength is 200mg, but prescription strength tablets can get as high as 800mg. Dogs are often exposed accidentally, either because they have chewed a bottle containing ibuprofen or their owner has given it to them intentionally for pain control.

The effects of ibuprofen poisoning are diverse. An overdose can cause damage to the GI tract, the kidneys and the central nervous system. Ingestion by dogs can lead to ulceration, vomiting, diarrhea and/or abdominal pain. Larger doses can result in an increased risk of a dog developing acute renal failure, depression, seizures and/or comas.

Chocolate

Chocolate contains a stimulant known as a methylxanthine or theobromine. The amount of methylxanthines depends on the type of chocolate. For example, milk chocolate contains lower amounts of methylxanthines than dark chocolate, while baker's chocolate has the highest and most toxic amount.

Clinical signs of chocolate poisoning vary. The dog's reaction depends on the type of chocolate, the amount ingested, the size of the dog, and the dog's sensitivity to methylxanthines. Signs of ingestion can include mild stimulation such as hyperactivity, agitation and restlessness, cardiovascular effects like tachycardia (increased heart rate), arrhythmias, hypertension or hypotension and central nervous system signs such as tremors and seizures. Vomiting and diarrhea may occur with any amount, due to chocolate's high fat and sugar content.

Ant and Roach Baits

No one likes having ants or roaches in the house, but it is important to remember the potential hazard to your dog by placing baits or traps. The product names vary, and the containers may be referred to as chambers, discs, stations, systems, traps, baits or trays. To attract the insects, most ant and roach baits use an attractant (often peanut butter), a sweetening agent and bread. These baits once contained compounds highly toxic to mammals (arsenic trioxide and lead arsenate); the most common insecticides used in ant and roach baits today are boric acid, avermectin, fipronil, hydramethylnon, propoxur and sulfonamide.

Due to the low concentration of the insecticide and the small size of the bait, serious illness in dogs ingesting the baits is not expected. In many instances, the risk of a foreign body or obstruction from the plastic or metal part of the container is of greater concern than the active ingredients. Signs of ingestion are usually limited to mild gastrointestinal upset and do not require specific treatment.

Rodenticides (rat poison)

Poisons intended to kill rats, mice, gophers, moles and other pesky mammals are among the most common and deadly household poisons. Since rodents and dogs are both mammals, it makes sense that substances highly poisonous to mice, for example, would be lethal to dogs. It cannot be stressed enough that rodenticides are highly toxic and any such poisons designed to kill small mammals need to be carefully stored away from curious canine noses. The poisons usually come in flimsy cardboard containers, and any dog or puppy can chew through it to get the bait.

While there are many categories of rodenticides, the most common poisoning seen in veterinary practice is the anti-coagulant kind. Anti-coagulant rodenticide has ingredient names like warfarin, fumarin, diphacinone and bromadiolone. These poisons act by interfering with a dog's ability to utilize Vitamin K. Without it, a dog's blood is unable to clot, which can ultimately cause severe blood loss, anemia, hemorrhage and death. Generally, clinical signs are not seen until 3-5 days after the dog has ingested the poison. Signs of ingestion are weakness, difficulty breathing, pale mucous membranes, bruising and bleeding from the nose. Other types of rodenticides can cause neurological symptoms such as incoordination, seizures and other cardiac failure.

If accidental ingestion of rat poison is suspected, contact your veterinarian immediately, even if your dog is not showing any symptoms. If possible bring the poison container to the clinic to determine the specific rodenticide ingested and therefore provide the best treatment. Early recognition is critical, as some intoxications can be treated successfully if caught early and treated appropriately.

Acetaminophen

Acetaminophen, most commonly known as Tylenol, is an over-the-counter medication used to relieve pain and reduce fevers. Available in tablets, capsules or liquids, it can be rather easy for a dog to chew on a bottle or mistakenly be given some by its owner as a pain killer. As with ibuprofen, dogs should never be given acetaminophen as a pain reliever. Specifically, acetaminophen breaks down into small particles that bind to red blood cells and other tissue cells. This results in the destruction of these cells. In other words, just one pill can cause significant tissue damage in dogs (especially small dogs). Signs of ingestion develop quickly and can include salivation, vomiting, weakness, abdominal pain and fluid build up (edema) in the face or paws.

Cold medications (Pseudo-ephedrine)

Many cold medications contain pseudo-ephedrine, a drug structurally similar to amphetamine. Ingestion can lead to cardiovascular and central nervous system problems. The most common clinical signs include agitation, hyperactivity, panting, hyperthermia (increased body temperature), tachycardia, head bobbing and dilated pupils. A small amount can be life threatening, so timely treatment is important.

Thyroid hormones

Thyroid hormones can be toxic to dogs. Although natural (desiccated thyroid) and synthetic (levothyroxine or L-thyroxine) derivatives of thyroid hormones are used to treat hypothyroidism in both animals and people, an overdose can be toxic. As with any medication, dogs are susceptible to drug overdoses, much like humans. Hyperactivity and tachycardia are the most common signs of overdose. If you think you have overdosed your dog or your own medication bottle has been chewed, consult your veterinarian for the best course of action.

Cleaning Products

This category contains dozens of products used around the home including toilet bowl cleaners, bleach, detergents, caustics (e.g. Drano, Ajax, etc.), pine oils and so forth. These products are often highly poisonous to dogs. The range of chemicals included in cleaning products can cause signs varying widely from mild local irritation (many detergent soaps) to deep penetrating tissue damage (alkaline products) to severe systemic disease (pine oils). Due to the wide range of products, generalized illness is most common along with skin irritation or a burn if contact has been topical instead of ingested. Like rodenticides, it is wise to keep all cleaners tightly closed when not in use and stored in a location where curious canine noses are unable to reach. Also, be sure to keep dogs out of newly cleaned areas to avoid paw injuries from walking in the cleaning solution and mouth burns from subsequent grooming.

Fertilizer

Spring and fall are the times to fertilize. Unfortunately, it is also the time for accidental poisoning. Dogs often lick their paws, especially after walking outdoors. Because fertilizers are usually a combination of ingredients, several toxic outcomes are possible. In general, the ingredients are poorly absorbed and most clinical signs are related to gastrointestinal irritation showing up as vomiting, hyper salivation, diarrhea or lethargy. The best way to avoid illness or injury is to keep your dog inside while treating your lawn and wait awhile before letting him or her out.

Household Chemicals (hydrocarbons)

Hydrocarbons are in numerous household products, including paints, varnishes, engine cleaners, furniture polish, lighter fluid, lamp oils, paint removers, and fuel oil (e.g. acetone, xylene, kerosene, gasoline, naphtha, mineral oil). Since there are so many possible poisons, the result of ingestion varies widely. Clinical signs include vomiting, diarrhea, mild to moderate eye irritation, skin burns, pulmonary damage, pneumonia, depression or excitement, hypoxia, inflammation and liver or kidney damage. Though dogs generally do not enjoy the taste of any of these products, a common cause of ingestion is through drinking out of puddles that contain chemicals or walking through spilled liquids and then licking their paws.

When cats play, they incorporate a variety of behaviors into their play. Aggressive play behavior is particularly common in young cats and in cats that live in one-cat households. Play provides young cats with opportunities to practice skills they would normally need for survival, such as pouncing, stalking, biting, scratching, and clawing. If humans play with a young kitten using their hands and/or feet instead of toys, the kitten is liable to learn that practicing these skills while playing with people is okay. In most cases, it is possible to teach your kitten or young adult cat that rough play is not acceptable behavior.

Since young cats and kittens need a lot of playtime, it is important to set up three or four consistent times during the day to initiate play with your cat. This helps her understand that she is not the one responsible for initiating play. This also helps to avoid unwanted pouncing at inappropriate or inconvenient times.

One way kittens play is by grabbing each other with both front feet, biting each other and kicking with their back feet. This is also a way kittens try to play with hands and feet if being waved in front of them. It is very important to avoid using any part of your body, like fingers or toes. Redirect your cat's aggressive play behavior onto acceptable objects like toys. It may take some trial and error to find the toy that works best with your kitten so make sure you try a variety.

Often, discouraging unacceptable behavior is the only avenue that is available. You need to set the rules for your kitten's behavior and your family and friends should reinforce these rules. Your kitten can't be expected to learn to differentiate between people in terms of when it's okay for rough play and when it is not.

• Use aversion techniques to discourage your kitten from nipping or biting. You can either use a squirt bottle filled with water or a can of pressurized air to squirt your kitten when she becomes rough. To use this technique effectively, you always need to have the spray bottle or can handy. Remember that aversion techniques only works if you offer your kitten an acceptable alternative.
• Redirect the behavior. After you startle your kitten with the air or water, IMMEDIATELY offer her a toy to wrestle with or to chase. This will encourage her to direct her rough play onto a toy instead of a person. It is recommended that you keep a stash of toys hidden in each room specifically for this purpose.
• Withdraw attention when your kitten starts to play too rough. If the distraction and redirection techniques don't seem to be working, the most drastic thing you can do to discourage your cat from rough play is to withdraw all attention. Since she wants to play with you, she is going to figure out how far she can go; however, you keep this limit consistent. The best way to withdraw your attention is to walk into another room and close the door long enough for her to calm down. If you pick her up to put her in another room, you're rewarding her by touching her. You should be the one to leave the room.

PLEASE NOTE: None of these methods are very effective unless you also give your kitten acceptable outlets for her energy. You need to play with her regularly using appropriate toys.

Punishing your kitten for rough play by tapping, flicking or hitting are almost always guaranteed to backfire. Your kitten could become afraid of your hands or she could interpret those flicks as playful moves and play more aggressively. Picking up your kitten to put her into a "timeout" could possibly reinforce her behavior because she probably would enjoy the physical contact of being picked up. By the time you get her to the timeout room and close the door, she has probably already forgotten what she did to be put in that situation.

If you find that none of these suggestions work and your kitten's play increases in aggression or becomes unpredictable, it can be best to seek help from a behavior specialist. Kittens can bite or scratch through the skin, and abuse by your cat is not conducive to a caring and mutually beneficial relationship.

Despite preventives that are nearly 100 percent effective, veterinarians continue to report increasing numbers of canine heartworm disease cases. Some owners blame the heartworm preventives for failing their pets, but the reality of the situation is much different. Watch this video to learn how the veterinarian, the pet owner and even the pet could be at fault for rising numbers of infected pets!

Man's best friend comes in all shapes, sizes, and of course, personalities. Choosing the right one can be overwhelming! The good news is that almost any dog can make a wonderful, lifelong companion for you and your family. The bad news is that most dogs are returned to the shelter or breeder because the original owner did not take certain key elements into consideration. The key is knowing what to look for.

A Little Homework Upfront About Dog Species Ensures You Are Happy With Your Selection

Choosing the right dog generally means identifying the type of animal who matches your lifestyle and needs. If you live alone in a small, third-floor apartment, adopting a large, active retriever might not be the best choice. Conversely, if you have a family of four and are looking for a companion to match your active lifestyle, such a dog may be perfect. A dog's size, exercise requirements, friendliness, assertiveness and compatibility with children should all figure into your decision.

Start by learning about different breeds and mixes. Talking to breeders, visiting with animals at the shelter, speaking with adoption counselors and asking questions to an owner of a specific breed are good ways to learn about what kind of dog might be right for you. Dogs fall into one of two categories: purebreds and mixed breeds. Most animal shelters have plenty of both. The only significant difference between the two is that purebreds, because their parents and other ancestors are all members of the same breed, are similar to a specific "breed standard". This means that if you adopt a purebred puppy, you have a good chance of knowing approximately how big he'll get and what general physical and behavior characteristics he'll have.

Of course, the size, appearance and temperament of most mixed breed dogs can often be predicted as well. After all, mixed breeds are simply combinations of different breeds. So if you happen to know the ancestry of a particular mixed breed puppy or can identify what type of dog he is (e.g., terrier mix), you have a good chance of knowing how he'll turn out.

Once you decide what kind of dog you think you would like, there are a couple of questions to ask yourself when faced with a number of different dogs that fit into the category you have chosen.

Do You Think All Dog Species Have The Same Characteristics? Know The Facts.

How old is the dog?

You may want to select a puppy as your new companion. However, young dogs usually require much more training and supervision than more mature dogs. If you lack time or patience to housetrain your pup or to correct problems like chewing and jumping, an adult dog may be a better choice.

How shy or assertive is the dog?

Although an active, bouncy dog might catch your eye, a quieter or more reserved dog might be a better match if you don't have a particularly active lifestyle.

How good is the animal with children?

Learning about a dog's past through a history sheet or from an adoption counselor can be helpful, but past information isn't always available or reliable. In general, an active dog who likes to be touched and is not sensitive to handling and noise is a dog that can probably thrive in a house full of kids. Also, keep in mind that puppies younger than 4 months, because of their fragility and special needs, often do not go well with families with young children.

Every dog in a shelter or kennel can provide you with boundless love and companionship, and every dog certainly deserves a lifelong home. But some dogs are better for you and your lifestyle than others. That is why you should take the time to make a thoughtful choice. After all, you are choosing a friend likely to be with you 10-15 years, if not longer! Select the right dog, and you and your new companion can enjoy those years to the fullest.

Schedules are very important to dogs because they are creatures of habit. You need to schedule when to feed, water, exercise and take your dog/puppy outdoors to eliminate. Since you want your new friend housebroken as early as possible, it can be a very long, drawn-out ordeal without a timely schedule.

If you know when he ate and filled his bladder up with water you will have a pretty good idea when he will need to be taken outdoors to eliminate. You will also be training his digestive system as well, which will help take some of the guesswork out of housebreaking. Remember preventive training — it’s always best to be thinking ahead. Take your dog outside when you think he might have to eliminate, rather than wait too long and run the risk of your puppy/dog having an accident indoors. The more times your puppy/dog eliminates outdoors where you want him to, the slimmer the chance for him to have an accident indoors. The more obvious it is to the dog/puppy, the quicker they will catch on to what you want from them. They really want to please you, and by constant reinforcement, you can show them how to do it.

Always accompany your dog/puppy outdoors. Each time, take him to a pre-selected area in your yard to eliminate. This prevents the dog/puppy from smelling the whole yard to find the perfect spot to eliminate. You are also assured that your dog/puppy has eliminated before bringing him indoors, and you can praise him.

Exercise is important for all dogs. Between 40 to 60 percent of all adult dogs are either overweight or likely to get that way due to diet and lack of an exercise program. Lack of exercise can cause dogs/puppies to exhibit destructive chewing behavior because they become bored or are trying to burn off excess energy. Making a schedule to walk your new friend several times a day for 15 to 20 minutes can help socialize him, give you both something to do together (bonding), and help you with your exercise program as well.