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Within the last few decades, advancements in veterinary medicine have caused a dramatic increase in the longevity of pets. Today, dogs, like humans, are living longer healthier lives. As a result of this increased longevity, a new branch of canine medicine has emerged called canine geriatrics.

The aging process can be defined as the time when deterioration takes place faster than regeneration or repair. When the aging process becomes greatly accelerated, this is known as the "geriatric stage."

Not all dogs age at the same rate. In general, the larger the dog, the earlier the geriatric stage occurs. St. Bernards and Great Danes age more rapidly and have shorter life spans than Poodles and Terriers. Certain breeds have a tendency to reach the geriatric stage earlier than others. This is true for the Brachycephalic dogs (flat-faced breeds) - Boston Terriers, Bulldogs, Pugs, and Boxers. Aside from aging rapidly, the brachycephalic breeds do not age well. This is due to the respiratory problems associated with the anatomy of the face and head.

As a dog matures and reaches the geriatric stage, functional changes occur in most major organs and organ systems. Many of these changes can be anticipated and special care is required. Since each dog is unique, an individualized geriatric program must be discussed with your veterinarian.

Listed below are some functional changes that occur in geriatric dogs

General Metabolic Rate

A decreased metabolic rate is the primary change associated with the aging process. As a result, an older dog's diet must be altered. In general, compared to the diet of a young active dog, an older dog's caloric intake should be reduced by about 20%. This can be accomplished by increasing the amount of fiber in the diet. In general, diets specially formulated for senior dogs contain increased amounts of fiber.

Cardiovascular System

Heart disease is a major problem in geriatric dogs. In fact, 75% of dogs over 9 years of age have evidence of heart disease. Although this number is quite large, only about 25% of these dogs develop symptoms of heart failure during their lifetime.

The most common heart disease in older dogs is endocardiosis. Endocardiosis is a degenerative disorder of the heart valves. The valves of the heart become thickened and distorted, leaking blood to other chambers when the heart contracts. Four valves are present in the heart: the mitral valve, the tricuspid valve, the aortic valve, and the pulmonic valve. The mitral valve is most commonly affected.

Symptoms associated with heart failure include coughing, respiratory problems, fatigue, and exercise intolerance.

Medical management is often effective in controlling symptoms associated with heart disease. This includes reducing the amount and intensity of exercise, decreasing stress, lowering salt intake (homemade diets or special commercial low-salt diets), and administration of prescription medication.

Respiratory System

Tracheal Collapse in Small Dogs - This condition primarily occurs in toy and small breeds. This results from a weakening of the tracheal cartilage or the tracheal muscles. Obesity is a predisposing factor for tracheal collapse.

Bronchitis and Obstructive Pulmonary Disease - As dogs age, the normal elastic tissue of the lungs is replaced by fibrous tissue. This fibrous tissue decreases the capacity of the lungs to stretch. As a result, breathing becomes more difficult and less oxygen is absorbed into the bloodstream.

Small and toy breeds are predisposed to bronchitis and obstructive pulmonary disease.

Urinary System

As a result of the aging process, dogs' kidneys undergo degenerative changes. The kidneys normally filter waste material from the blood and concentrate urine. Older dogs' kidneys function less efficiently, and the ability to concentrate urine and eliminate waste products decreases. Symptoms associated with decreased kidney function include increased thirst, increased urine production weight loss, and occasional vomiting.

Kidney failure is a life-threatening disease of animals. It is one of the most common medical problems encountered in older dogs. Regular veterinary exams, along with blood tests, are extremely important for detecting early changes associated with kidney disease.

Bladder infections(cystitis) are also quite common in older animals. Straining during urination, increased frequency of urination, and blood in the urine are common symptoms associated with cystitis.

Dental Care

Periodontal disease (the progressive inflammation and destruction of supporting structures of the teeth) is an important cause of teeth loss in older dogs. Dental care is often neglected and should begin at an early age. Veterinary teeth cleaning is the first step in maintaining healthy gums and teeth.

Symptoms associated with advanced periodontal disease include bad breath, oral pain, and reluctance to chew food, and weight loss.

By combining regular veterinary visits with special home care, your dog can live a long healthy life. If your dog is approaching the twilight years, discuss blood testing and geriatric care with your veterinarian.

Health care costs are rising rapidly - not just for you, but also for your pet. Veterinary medical costs are on the rise and many treatment options once available only for humans can now be used on pets. This is great news for the health of your pet, but it may not be so great for your wallet. Specialized treatments, emergency surgeries and consultations with specialists are expensive and working large veterinary bills into an already tight budget can be difficult for many pet owners. However, there are many options for pet owners looking to budget for the care of their faithful companion.

When it comes to tackling a large veterinary bill, health care credit cards are an easy option for pet owners. CareCredit, the Wells Fargo and Citibank all offer credit cards that can be used to pay for your pet's health care. CareCredit was the first company to offer financing exclusively for veterinary care. CareCredit works just like a regular credit card, except that it can be used only for veterinary (and human) medical care. More than 100,000 veterinarians in the country accept CareCredit and CareCredit's website features a searchable list of veterinarians who take payment through CareCredit.

To use CareCredit, apply online at www.carecredit.com. Once you're approved, make an appointment for your pet with your veterinarian. When it's time to pay the bill, you can set up a CareCredit payment plan with your veterinarian. Payment plans can last anywhere from three to 18 months, with no interest; for higher treatment fees, 24 to 60 month payment plans can be set up with a fixed 11.9 percent interest rate. The average credit limit is $4,000.

Chase also offers a specialized credit card for health care costs. The ChaseHealthAdvance allows pet owners to set up no-interest payment plans spread out from three to 24 months. Longer financing periods (for 24 to 48 months) are available with an interest rate ranging from 0 to 11.99 percent. The credit limit for ChaseHealthAdvance ranges from $5,000 to $20,000.

Wells Fargo and Citibank also offer credit card financing options for veterinary care. The Wells Fargo Health Advantage Card and the Citi Health Card work much like CareCredit and can be used for both veterinary and human medical procedures.

The Citi Health Card offers three different payment plans: zero interest for three to 18 months; a budgeted 48-month plan at 12.96 percent interest and a regular credit plan at 21.98 variable interest. Wells Fargo offers similar payment plans that can be customized by your veterinarian.

Not all veterinarians accept health care credit cards. Before applying for a card, ask your veterinarian which payment plans he or she uses. It is also a good idea to find out if veterinary emergency clinics in your area accept health care credit cards, as well. Adding another credit card to a growing stack of bills is a difficult choice - but far less difficult than choosing to forego an important procedure for your pet because of high costs.

When disaster strikes, having an emergency plan is essential. But as you plan for the worst (and hope for the best), don't forget about your pet's place in those plans. Thousands of animals were displaced by the storms and flooding that ravaged the Gulf Coast following Hurricane Katrina in 2005, and the recent floods in the Midwest have already forced thousands of residents—and their pets—out of their homes. Here are some tips to help you keep your pet safe in the event of a major emergency.

The first and most important step is to plan ahead. In the event of a hurricane, earthquake, flood or other natural disaster, you may be forced to evacuate your home. However, most disaster shelters, such as those maintained by the Red Cross, cannot accommodate pets, with the exception of service animals. Because of this, it's a good idea to work out some kind of emergency shelter plan for your pet. Contact hotels and motels outside your immediate area and find out if they allow pets, either in times of emergency or on a regular basis. Friends and relatives outside the affected area may also be able to care for your pet. Many veterinary hospitals and boarding kennels also provide shelter for animals in an emergency. Some hospitals, especially those in disaster-prone areas, have emergency plans in place for pets staying at the hospital. Whichever method you choose, keep a list of these "pet friendly" emergency accommodations on hand and make arrangements as far in advance as possible.

Whatever you do, do not leave your pet at home. Leaving a pet alone during an emergency is likely to result in your pet being injured, lost or even worse. If you are forced to evacuate and cannot make shelter arrangements for your pet, bring him or her with you and try to find shelter for them along the way. In the case of floods, hurricanes, major storms and other disasters for which warnings are often issued in advance, start making preparations immediately. Confirm emergency shelter arrangements, bring your pets inside, and be sure all of your animal companions are wearing some sort of ID tag. Microchipping your pet is also a good way to ensure that you are able to find your pet should he or she become lost during an evacuation.

Having a disaster supplies kit for your pet is also helpful. This kit should include medications, medical records and a first aid kit, leashes and harnesses, a supply of food and portable water, a photo of your pet (in case he or she is lost), and bedding and a toy or two to keep your pet comfortable, if easy to transport. Preparations for each pet depend on the species and age of the pet. For example, birds should be transported in a secure cage or carrier, while snakes can be transported temporarily in a pillowcase until more secure housing can be found. Farm owners or those caring for horses and other large animals must also make special arrangements for evacuating or sheltering their animals at home.

For more information and detailed examples of emergency plans, The Humane Society of the United States maintains a list of disaster preparedness resources for pet owners on their website. Additionally, the American Red Cross and the Federal Emergency Management Agency have compiled a list of resources and tips for keeping animals safe during a disaster. Individual states may have their own disaster plans for animals. The American Veterinary Medical Association maintains a list of states with animal disaster plans.

Most people are embarrassed by the fact that their dog eats his or her own poop. Since this behavior is not often discussed, most people don't realize that it is a common dog behavior.

After puppies are born, the mother dogs keep them clean by licking them and eating their feces. If the mothers did not have this instinct, the puppies would get very dirty and the feces would accumulate. If too many puppies were produced in a litter and the mother was not able to keep up with her obligations, another adult dog in the family would very often take over some of the motherly responsibilities. Cats also perform these same tasks for their kittens.

Eating feces is not at an unusual behavior for dogs. Within a few weeks, the puppies begin eating solid food and can walk well enough to get out of the nest. At this time, the mother can stop her cleaning responsibilities as the puppies start pooping elsewhere. This habit, however, can persist in her, and this same instinct most likely exists in most dogs (male and female), ready to be triggered by various life situations.

Why a Dog Eats Feces

Sometimes we don't know why a particular dog starts eating poop, but certain conditions can trigger the behavior. Since some of these indicate a dog that needs help, you'll want to consider them as possibilities for what is going on with your dog.

1. If a dog is not getting enough to eat or is going too long between meals, he may begin to eat his own feces. If you are having trouble figuring out a feeding schedule or the amount to feed your dog, it's probably best to discuss this with your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can help you evaluate the dog's weight and can suggest a feeding schedule and amount. Sometimes it takes experimentation to see what works best for a particular dog.

2. Your dog may have a physical problem that causes excessive hunger, pain or another sensation that may resort to eating feces. If your adult dog suddenly starts eating his or her own feces, take your dog to your veterinarian for a check-up.

3. A dog with intestinal parasites or another condition that changes the consistency of his feces may resort to eating them. If another dog has a similar condition, your dog may decide to eat the other dog's feces. When you take your dog to the veterinarian, bring a fresh fecal sample for evaluation.

4. Whatever the cause of the problem might be, a change of diet sometimes helps. There are so many dog foods from which to choose, and food that works well for one dog may not be right for another. When changing from one food to another, you need to make the change gradually. Start by mixing a small amount of the new food with the old. Over a period of two weeks, increase the amount of new food and decrease the quantity of the old dog food. At the end of this time, you should be feeding your dog only the new food. Gradually switching foods gives the dog's intestines time to adjust and avoid diarrhea resulting from the change.

5. If you are punishing your dog during house training or punishing him for defecating in the house, he may react be eating his own feces. This is one of many reasons not to use punishment during house training or after a dog defecates in the house. Some dogs develop a mental connection that they will be punished if their humans find them in the same room with feces.

6. Boredom can cause dogs to do all sorts of things. If your dog is not socializing enough or you are not exercising him sufficiently, he may end up eating his own feces. If you are leaving your dog alone for long periods of time, you may want to purchase some toys in order to keep him amused. Toys that have treats inside them (for the dog to get out) can help with lots of boredom-based problems.

Miracle Cures That Usually Don't Work

Eating feces is not healthy for your dog. The first thing you need to do to help overcome this problem is to keep your dog's area clean of feces. House training and supervising the dog whenever he is in the designated relief area is required.

Until a dog is fully house trained and the feces-eating habit has died out, picking up after each bowel movement is important. After your dog develops proper habits, you may be able to pick up just once a day if you have a private place for the dog to use.

Some people swear that mixing food additives or meat tenderizers in a dog's food can cure the habit. Their theory is that the additive provides a nutrient that the dog is craving. Another theory is that the additive makes the feces taste bad.

Before you try adding any of these substances to your dog's food, consult your veterinarian. Some additives may not be safe for your particular dog. Also, don't expect any additive to be a miracle cure. These things tend to work for the occasional dog, but chances are pretty slim that they will work for your dog.

Behavior Training - The Cure

If a medical or nutritional problem is not found, your dog may need behavior modification. Behavior modification takes time and you shouldn't expect to cure the problem after just a few sessions.

Each time your dog goes out to potty, you need to have him by your side, attached to a collar and leash. If your dog is large and you cannot control him well, he needs to be fitted with some type of head halter.

Each time you take your dog out, he needs to be on the leash and collar. As soon as his poop hits the ground and he shows interest in it, call the dog to you. Don't use the leash to jerk the dog, but simply to keep him from being able to reach the feces. Keep the treats that you have out of his sight.

The instant the dog reaches you, praise him, whip out a treat that he likes and give it to him. Back away from the dog, praise him and give him another treat for coming to you. Repeat this process for a total of three to five times. At this point, you will have taken the dog's mind off the feces.

When you first begin, put the dog inside while cleaning up the feces. Once you have good control and a good rapport with your dog, you can go ahead and clean up while the dog is still outside. As you repeat this process of rewarding him with a treat, you can increase the length of the leash. Eventually you can replace the leash with a long line and give him the reward at your back door. Once you feel that your dog is responding well, remove the line and reward him when he comes to the door. Keep up the same energy and level of the reward if you want your dog to keep responding.

Solving Behavior Problems

As with any behavior problem, it is best to begin intervention as soon as you notice the problem. The less time that the habit has persisted, the less time you need for correction and the more easily the problem fades.

If a friend or a family member's dog has a behavior problem, let them know that punishment cannot solve it. Punishment is detrimental to the dog's trust in people and to the family's relationship with their pet.

How To Give Your Dog A Pill

So, the veterinarian has sent you and your not-so-well dog home with a bottle of pills and some instructions.

Don't worry. Giving pills to your dog is just a matter of know-how and plenty of praise. Here are the steps to follow. Note: Giving a pill to your dog is not the same as giving a pill to your cat.

Pilling a Dog

1. Gently take hold of the head from above, placing your thumb and fingers on either side of the muzzle. Squeeze firmly in and up just behind the canine teeth ("fangs"). The dog's mouth should open.
2. Use your free hand to hold on to the pill while lowering the animal's jaw. With the mouth open wide, place the pill as far back on the tongue as possible, pushing it even farther with your index finger.
3. Gently close and hold the muzzle while your dog swallows. You can encourage this by stroking the underside of the throat downward.
4. Finally, give your dog lots of praise and reinforcement each time he swallows a pill.

Here are additional helpful tips for pilling your dog:

The more quickly you perform the above steps, the better.

Film-coated pills are best. They go down more easily and don't dissolve as quickly, which is important if it takes you more than one try.

If you can't get the pill down, try disguising it in something your dog loves (example: peanut butter or cream cheese).

Check with your veterinarian, because some medication should not be given with food.

1. Tylenol, Advil and chocolate are poisonous to cats.
2. The ancestor of all domestic cats is the African Wild Cat which still exists today.
3. In ancient Egypt, killing a cat was a crime punishable by death.
4. In ancient Egypt, cats were preserved as mummies and embalmed mice were placed with them in their tombs. In one ancient city, over 300,000 cat mummies were found.
5. The first cat show was in 1871 at the Crystal Palace in London.
6. Today there are about 100 distinct breeds of the domestic cat.
7. Genetic mutation created the domestic cat, which is tame from birth.
8. Like birds, cats have a homing ability that uses its biological clock, the angle of the sun, and the earth's magnetic field.
9. Hunting is not instinctive for cats. Kittens born to non-hunting mothers may never learn to hunt.
10. Cats bury their feces to cover their trails from predators.
11. Mother cats teach their kittens to use the litter box.
12. Among other tasks, cats can be taught to use a toilet, come, sit, beg, eat with their paws, heel, jump through a hoop, play a piano, play dead, roll over, open a door, hide food in boxes, shake, and fetch.
13. Cats sleep 16 to 18 hours per day. When cats are asleep, they are still alert to incoming stimuli. If you poke the tail of a sleeping cat, it will respond accordingly.
14. In Great Britain, black cats are thought to bring good luck.
15. Besides smelling with their nose, cats can smell with an additional organ called the Jacobson's organ, located in the upper surface of the mouth.
16. Cats can't taste sweets.
17. The chlorine in fresh tap water irritates sensitive parts of the cat's nose. Let tap water sit for 24 hours before giving it to a cat.
18. The average cat food meal is the equivalent to about five mice.
19. The catgut formerly used as strings in tennis rackets and musical instruments does not come from cats. Catgut actually comes from sheep, hogs, and horses.
20. A large majority of white cats with blue eyes are deaf. White cats with only one blue eye are deaf only in the ear closest to the blue eye. White cats with orange eyes do not have this disability.
21. Neutering a cat extends its life span by two or three years.
22. Ten human years translate to about 60 cat years. A one year old cat is similar in age to an 18 year old human.